One of my teachers from Lancaster advised me to keep myself busy with trips during my year abroad, which is why I booked a weekend in Bern. The week leading up to my trip had been hellish: I was tired, on edge, and stuck in my own head. I was looking forward to escaping my worries for a few days. To get excited, I researched the best things to do and see in Bern, but I hadn’t planned anything concrete and was mostly playing it by ear. I had arranged to stay with another Couchsurfing host, and having already done this in Lyon, I felt less nervous about it. My coach was delayed by an hour, which was a bit irritating, but Flixbus gave me 15% off my next journey, so it wasn’t all bad!
My host texted me to say that he had been in a bike accident and had to go to hospital, so he wouldn’t be there when I arrived. When I got to his place, I found it to be a pleasant little apartment, and I had the living room to myself. He had left some keys in the letterbox for me, but since he didn’t have his own set, I had to let myself in, retrieve the spare set from inside, then climb down four flights of stairs to return the original keys to the letterbox. What a faff! After that, I went to sleep on my ‘couch’ as it was already quite late.
The next morning, I finally met my host, stitches on knee. We had originally planned for him to show me around Bern, but he understandably couldn’t anymore. He was very friendly, and we joked about how British people don’t know how to make coffee after he invited me to help myself whilst I stared confused at his Moka pot. I tried to defend myself by explaining that I use an espresso machine at home, but I still felt I had let down my fellow Brits. Since he couldn’t accompany me, he showed me a map and explained how to get to the Alte Stadt (old town) from his apartment, assuring me that Bern is a small and easily navigable city. I set out for the day without a fixed plan, simply curious to see where it would take me.
The first thing I noticed about Bern was how cold it was. Maybe I was just unlucky with the weather, but it felt much colder than Geneva. The second thing that struck me was how much more “Swiss” Bern felt compared to Geneva: the architecture, especially in the Old Town, seemed more stereotypically Swiss. I guess Geneva’s modernity and proximity to France are to blame for the difference. I decided to vist the Dählhölzli Zoo after seeing a sign for it and remembering it from the travel guides I’d read. For just 9 francs, I got to see puffins, moose, monkeys, and more. The highlight of the zoo was the aquarium, not just because it was away from the biting cold, but because the bright colours of the fish and coral were incredibly therapeutic.
I was also eager to see Bern’s iconic bears. My host had warned me they might be hibernating, but I still tried my luck at the bear pit. Sadly, he was right, and the closest thing I got was a wooden bear carving nearby. As a consolation prize, I bought a sticker from a souvenir shop to add to my laptop’s growing collection. I realised I was close to the Rosengarten (rose garden), which I’d also heard was lovely. After a steep uphill walk, I arrived just after sunset, so I couldn’t see much, but I enjoyed sitting in the restaurant with a cup of rooibos tea, reflecting on the day in my notebook.
The only bear I managed to see
The next morning, I was still tired from walking 23,000 steps the previous day. I had forgotten that shops in Switzerland are closed on Sundays, which was annoying since I had skipped shopping on Saturday, thinking I’d have time later – silly me! Oh well, I decided to use the time to walk around and see anything I’d missed. Mindful of the fact my train home was at 5:30pm, I left my accommodation early to make the most of my last day.
The night before, I had stumbled upon the Zytglogge (clock tower) in the dark, so I returned to see it properly. It’s a prime example of what I mean when I say that the Bernese architecture feels much more Swiss, and I’d highly recommend visiting it if you’re ever in Bern. Although I didn’t go inside to see the mechanics, the exterior alone is impressive. I later learned that it always shows the current zodiac sign, moon phase, time of sunrise and sunset, and the date – fascinating details I wish I’d known earlier!
The Zytglogge, with its quintessential Swiss architecture
While wandering through the Old Town, I came across a musical instrument museum. As a music enthusiast who has played the violin since I was seven, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity. It featured mostly woodwind and brass instruments, which wasn’t what I expected, but I wasn’t too disappointed, especially since the ticket was only 5 francs. I even saw some impressively long alphorns! Next, I visited another famous Bern landmark: Einstein’s house. I didn’t know much about him beyond his theory of relativity, so I learned a lot of interesting details (like the fact he married his cousin!). There was one quote that particularly stood out to me: “Particularly in stressful situations, music and playing the violin helped him to regain strength and inner peace.” I could definitely relate to that.
I made sure to leave early to collect my bags and catch my train on time. It was a shame I couldn’t stay longer, as Bern is a beautiful city with much more to explore. My host invited me to come back when it’s snowing and he’s not injured, and I told him I would if I could. The train ride back was a reminder of how expensive Switzerland can be: a bottle of Coke Zero cost me 5.40 CHF! Still, I felt refreshed from my trip, and even if my mind was still racing, I was proud to have travelled alone once again, as I had in Lyon. Next up: Milan, which I’m really looking forward to. I’ve never been to Italy, but I’ve always dreamed of going.
Written by Ela Selam
Leave a Reply