For our last holiday of the year, Lewis and I wanted somewhere relaxing and warm. As I looked at the European map for where I haven’t yet been, Portugal seemed the natural choice. Not only is it sunny, but I’d heard it’s great for vegans and full of cultural activities. Lewis agreed and so it was booked.
Read on to see what we got up to on our week away.
Day 1
We didn’t get to the hotel until 1:15am the previous night, so our first day was naturally spent tired. We started by exploring the area, which was full of shops and lovely architecture. As my favourite colour is yellow, I was especially in love with the abundance of yellow houses in Lisbon. I commented that we should paint our house yellow when we get one.

Although I can’t speak Portuguese, my language knowledge still came in handy. As I was paying for magnets in a gift shop, a Portuguese woman was telling me that she lived in Switzerland where she tried to learn English, which she never managed, but she did learn French. I then switched to French and told her that I also lived in Switzerland and have a French degree. We had a short conversation and Lewis told me he’s always so impressed when I do that. Being multilingual is certainly an asset when travelling.
Once back to the hotel, we went in the rooftop pool, of which we haven’t had the privilege on our other holidays. It wasn’t massive, but it was great for simply sitting and reading, complete with a bar! I appreciated a hotel with a pool, even in a bustling city.
In the evening, we went to a vegan restaurant called Organi Chiado. It was a stone’s throw from the Santa Justa lift, a Neo-Gothic iron elevator connecting downtown Lisbon to Carmo Square, which we walked to beforehand. It wasn’t open at the time, yet it was fascinating to admire.

The restaurant offered a selection of three vegan pâtés as a starter, which we ordered as we were intrigued. My favourite was the peanut and apple flavour, though there were two more savoury options. I ordered penne pasta with a creamy cashew and tomato sauce for my main, followed by rice pudding for dessert. The whole meal was delicious and surprisingly cheaper than UK restaurants.
Lewis suggested we went to Parque Eduardo VII, the biggest park in Lisbon, after our meal. We sadly missed the sunset, but it offered a great view of the city since it stands on a hill. We sat on the wall for a while and simply took in the views. It was a lovely way to spend our first evening in Lisbon.

Day 2
As per usual, I woke up much earlier than Lewis, so I spent the morning reading on the roof. Since I was on the only bench in the shade, a man asked me in Portuguese whether he could sit there too. My very British self responded, “what?”, so he repeated the question in English. I obliged and he later asked whether I was from Manchester. We got talking and he told me he studied French and Portuguese in Manchester, so I told him about my own journey with languages. He congratulated me for continuing with them at postgrad and he went on his way. I found it a pleasant interaction to start my day.
When Lewis awoke, we hopped on the bus towards LX Factory, a lively space combining food, shopping and art. We started in a café and I had the vegan old reliable: a falafel wrap. We then went to Ler Devagar, a huge bookshop and the reason I wanted to visit LX Factory so much. Any book you could imagine spanned the shop from floor to ceiling in several different languages. I was disappointed by the very few German books, but I walked out with an English version of Kafka’s The Hunger Artist.

Our next stop was another famous landmark in Lisbon: Christ the King. We used the bus to traverse the bridge, where we then had to trek up a very large hill. We probably wouldn’t have minded this if not for the heat! After replenishing in a nearby bar, we looked at the statue and admired its sheer size. We were planning to go up the lift, until we saw that we’d have to wait an hour. We decided against this and admired the city from the ground, which was still a sight to behold.

For our tea that night, we wanted to try 26 Vegan Food Project, a renowned vegan restaurant in Lisbon. However, it was absolutely packed when we arrived and we never thought to reserve a table. After a panicked Google search of other vegan-friendly restaurants in the area, we found a Thai restaurant. It wasn’t as good as the fancy meal I expected but it did the trick. Lewis told me that my veganism can be an inconvenience, which I know is true, so I’m grateful he can tolerate it!
I learnt we were very close to Vegan Nata, a vegan bakery that sells just one thing that I probably don’t need to state. I’d never tried a non-vegan pastel de nata before this so I have no point of reference, but as a custard lover, the vegan nata was delicious. I wish I could make them myself, but I imagine a vegan version is complex. I was very satisfied to end my night with this yummy snack.
Day 3
It was Lewis’ idea to visit the zoo on our third day since he knows I like animals. Truthfully, it wasn’t a big priority for me since there are great zoos in our own country, but we had nothing to lose (besides the ticket price).
The zoo was very large and we probably saw half the animals, if that. One of the zoo’s selling points, is the number of different monkeys they offer, which always interest us to watch; they look so similar to us yet act so different! We also had the chance to see elephants, deer, koalas among dozens of others.
Lewis informed me there was a dolphin show at the zoo, which I told him we should watch. Neither of us had particularly high expectations, but after half an hour of impressive tricks, we were very pleasantly surprised. It was both of our favourite parts of the day, and Lewis said it brought a tear to his eye.

We made the wise decision to book a table at the restaurant we wanted to visit the previous night. It proved to be more than worth it because the food was amazing and the atmosphere was lovely. I ordered the vegan bifana, a traditional Portuguese sandwich, for my main, and a pistachio panna cotta for dessert. Even Lewis, who isn’t vegan, said his food was delicious, so it’s got the non-vegan seal of approval!
Day 4
We’d planned to go to Sintra, the nearby UNESCO World Heritage town, but we woke up too late and decided against it. Instead, we set out for another place I’d been eager to see: Alfama, the oldest part of Lisbon. Before we did, we went to a café called Amun to fuel for the day and I had a vegan poké bowl. On the way to the bus stop, we stumbled across the Botanic Gardens that felt like a true enchanted forest.

When we got to Alfama, our first stop was the flea market. I’d read great things about it online and it didn’t disappoint; it offered a wide range of products with everything from jewellery to books, to clothes to antiques. Lewis bought me a beautiful bracelet, and I bought myself a mosaic bowl and a white cardigan. Since we were in the second half of our trip, I felt like splashing the cash!
We visited the nearby Castelo De São Jorge when we were done, which has been occupied by several groups since the 2nd Century. As you’ll know from many other posts of mine, I love stepping into history and learning about the events that occurred right where I’m stood. I find it fascinating.

Lewis told me he was in the mood for pizza, so I found a pizzeria with vegan options. The one thing I didn’t like about Lisbon, which became especially apparent in Alfama, is the hills and slippery pavements. I spent most of my walking time attached to Lewis in case I fell, and I joked that I wasn’t missing out on my workouts!
Although the restaurant had a nice atmosphere, my pizza disappointed me as there was no vegan cheese. I didn’t complain since we’d mostly eaten at vegan restaurants, which are rare feats in themselves, so it was better than nothing. After we finished our meal, we walked to the Arco Triunfal, which was impressive but busy, so we didn’t stay long before returning to the hotel.

Day 5
This was when we actually went to Sintra. We didn’t want to deal with the train journey, so we ordered a taxi from the hotel. Our first stop was the only vegan eatery I found in Sintra from my research: Mela Canela. I ordered falafels, which were the nicest falafels I’ve ever had and a great start to the day. I certainly needed it for what was ahead.
We got the bus up the hill to Castelo dos Mouros, an 8th Century Medieval fortress. It was another amazing piece of history that I’d highly recommend visiting, although reaching the highest point is no easy task. After climbing hundreds of steps and getting very out of breath, we finally made it to the top. It was definitely worth it because the view of both Sintra and the sea was beautiful from there. If you have plenty of stamina, you should try it too.

Just a bit further up the hill from the castle is the place I was most excited for. Palácio de Pena, the 19th Century Romanticist palace, looks straight from a Disney film with its bright architecture and intricate shapes. Inside the palace, we saw artefacts and rooms set up how they once were, with intermittent balcony visits to revel in the fairytale exterior. It made my yellow-loving heart happy, and I’m glad we came despite the hardship getting up.

Although there are other beautiful sites in Sintra, like the Initiation Well to name one, we were ready to go home after our long expedition. For dinner, we sat outside at a restaurant called Local Santos. I hadn’t had a drink since we’d been in Lisbon, but I thought this was the time to sip some cheeky cocktails. I ordered my favourite, the Moscow mule, as well as a main of tofu paprika and a Snickers for dessert. It wasn’t literally a Snickers – more a deconstructed one – but I still think about how delicious it was.
We stumbled tipsily to the hotel and had a few more drinks at the rooftop bar. We bumped into another British couple that Lewis had previously met, so we continued to drink with them. Though I enjoyed speaking with some fellow Brits, it led me to drink more than planned and I ended up quite drunk! As I’ve said before, this is why I don’t drink often and it was soon time for bed.
Day 6
This was our last full day as our flight was at 6:30am the next morning. We were both very tired from the night before so the day was off to a slow start. I wanted to see Belem Tower as it’s an apparent must-see in Lisbon, so I set off on my own since Lewis was still deep in slumber.
I got off the metro outside the Jéronimos Monastery because it was close to plenty of shops and restaurants. I didn’t go in the monastery, but the outside was more than enough to impress me with its grandiose gothic architecture. I was hungry at this point, so I found a café called Miolo and ordered myself some brunch. As was the case in Belfast, I was very lucky that Lisbon accommodated vegans well as I could always find something to eat. It’s something I now have to consider on my travels.

Lewis finally arose and found me, so we sat in a park for a short while. We were both nursing hangovers and we’d chosen a great place for it. Once we’d gained some energy, we looked in all the shops and I was especially drawn to, you guessed it, the jewellery shop. In classic Ela fashion, I bought myself a necklace. Another piece to remember Lisbon by.
Truthfully, we weren’t in the mood to see Belem Tower. It was also Monday, the one day it isn’t open, so we returned to the hotel. I felt a bit bad that I hadn’t seen one of the most famous sites in Lisbon, but I’d seen so many other lovely things that it was a great trip nevertheless. We spent the afternoon in the pool for the final time, before we went for our ‘last supper’ that Lewis had chosen.
It was a restaurant called Vegan Junkies that offered all sorts of vegan ‘junk food’. Lewis told me that a large reason he’s put off by veganism is the fact it’s all seemingly ‘healthy food’, which I don’t fully agree with but can understand. He loves his burgers, so he naturally ordered one here, while I ordered the vegan koftas. I really liked it and I finished off with a peanut pie, which was nice but didn’t compare to the Snickers from the night before. If it isn’t obvious from this trip, I’m obsessed with peanut-based desserts!
We then headed back to the hotel and got an early night for our 4:30am wake-up to fly home.
Final thoughts
We’d planned for Lisbon to be a fairly chill holiday, yet we spent most of the time exploring. Nevertheless, we both agreed it was our favourite holiday together. This is probably explained by the constant stress I felt in Paris since it was our first trip away and the fact that Belfast didn’t feel that different. We also agreed that Lisbon is underrated and hardly ever raved about in reference to good holiday destinations in Europe. We’d highly recommend it, especially for couples.
Lisbon was just the relaxation I needed before my incoming stressful year of postgraduate study. We can’t realistically go away again before next year, so that’ll be getting me through the stress. I’m already thinking of where I want to go next time, so let me know if you have any suggestions!
































